Tasting notes: The best ice wines for your superyacht

Discovering ice wines

Grapes frozen on the vine produce ice wines, which generally have a crisper, clearer taste than other sweet wines, says Malachy Duffy...

If you enjoy gardening, you know how important it is to pay attention to growing zone maps that dictate when it is safe to plant to avoid late frosts. But in the world of wine, there is a rarefied niche where the dreaded temperature plunges are crucial. The resulting wines earn the poetic name “ice wine.” Ripe grapes are allowed to freeze on the vine, which separates out the water from the flavoured elements, so when the grapes are crushed, they yield a sweet and concentrated must (juice). This is then fermented to make a product that can stand proudly in the pantheon of sweet wines.

Most of the better-known sweet wines, such as Sauternes or Tokaji, owe their existence to the development of a late-season mould, botrytis — the noble rot — that concentrates the sugar. But grapes that are used in making the botrytis-based sweet wines are not used for making ice wines. The latter require healthy grapes that remain in good shape on the vine until the freeze arrives. This gives ice wine its characteristic refreshing sweetness balanced by high acidity.

The production of ice wines is challenging, as temperatures might not drop low enough before the grapes begin to deteriorate. So it is not surprising that the geographic range of production is limited, the prime regions being the perhaps less obvious wine tasting locations of Canada, Germany and, increasingly, the United States. Unlike other sweet wines that can be served at different stages of a meal, ice wines are best served afterward, having been chilled for no more than an hour in a refrigerator. Here's how to buy the best wine for your superyacht...

2012 Inniskillin Pearl Vidal

I will never forget the first time I had an Inniskillin wine. I had heard of its quality, but the reality exceeded expectation. With a rich golden hue, this iteration has intriguing flavours of tropical fruit, a wonderful mouth-filling texture and a long, dry finish.

$54, crossroadswines.com

2012 Dr. Loosen Riesling Eiswein

I am especially fond of this wine, which offers great value. A lovely shimmery gold colour, it exhibits gentle scents of honey and has a pleasant mix of citrus and apricot on the palate, plus a silken finish.

$66, saratogawine.com

Non-vintage Bonny Doon Muscat Vin de Glacière

I had to include this savoury creation from the irrepressible Randall Graham, a winemaker who delights in popping balloons of wine pretention. To make this lovely wine, Graham takes Muscat grapes and stores them in a freezer. The result is unconventional but delicious.

$20, bonnydoonvineyard.com

2013 Cave Spring Cellars Riesling Icewine

This wine hails from Canada’s Niagara Peninsula, where the breezes off Lake Ontario make the conditions for ice wine just about perfect. This flavourful wine has a nose of spiced apple, bracing acidity and a long finish.

$60, binnys.com

Changyu Golden Diamond Icewine Valley Vidal

One of the great stories in the wine world is the recent emergence of a wine industry in China. I wouldn’t have expected to find an ice wine there — though given the size of the country, it isn’t unthinkable — but this example has lovely notes of syrup and honey.

$36, buyyourwine.com

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