OSHIMA, NIIJIMA AND HACHIJOJIMA

When most people picture Tokyo, they see the city in fast-forward: neon skylines, high-speed trains and Michelin-starred meals.

But set a course just a few hours south by sea and you’ll find a Tokyo that feels worlds apart. Here, volcanic peaks rise out of the Pacific, waves crash against black rock and hot springs steam in the open air as the sun sets behind rugged cliffs.

Niijima feels like Oshima’s creative, barefoot cousin. Renowned for its surf culture and beachy, laid-back vibe, it’s a magnet for Japanese surfers and artisans. Habushiura Beach is its star attraction - a long sweep of white volcanic sand, backed by wind-shaped pines and crashing waves.

The island has a strong artistic identity. At the Niijima Glass Art Center, guests can try their hand at glass etching and engraving onto unique green pieces made from the island’s native koga stone – a olive-hued material found only here and on Italy’s Lipari Island. Scattered around the island are a collection of Moai-like statues sculpted from the same stone, each bearing a different expression.

For those seeking rejuvenation, Yunohama onsen is a highlight. Open 24 hours and styled like an ancient Greek temple, it’s built entirely from local stone and open to all ages, with swimsuits required. Fishing is another draw, with bream, mackerel and squid easily caught offshore, which can be transformed by the onboard chef into a fresh omakase meal.

With emerald-green mountains, dense subtropical forests and coral-rich seas, Hachijojima is the furthest south of the three and the most tropical in character.

The island’s volcanic origin lends itself to a diverse and colourful underwater world. Sokodo Beach is a must for scuba divers, with sea turtles a common sight and rare species like the wrought-iron butterflyfish and redtail triggerfish found nowhere else in Japan. Reef walls and drop-offs provide thrilling terrain for advanced divers, while sheltered bays are perfect for those who prefer snorkelling.

Back on land, there is Nanbara Senjojiki, a dramatic black lava plateau that stretches out to sea, sculpted by millennia of eruptions. Hiking up Hachijo Fuji - the island’s highest peak - offers views across the archipelago and a calming sense of isolation.

Hachijojima’s cultural life is just as rich. Visit in spring for the Freesia Festival, when meadows burst into bloom, or explore the delicate art of Kihachijo weaving - an intricate, saffron-toned silk textile that has been made here for over a thousand years.