Georgia Boscawen uncovers the origins of ‘Azulejo', Lisbon's ornate tiling that festoons the coastal city
Decorating the facades of apartment blocks, churches and bakeries, Lisbon’s famous patterned tiling is known as ‘Azulejo’. Mostly blue and white (although many of the patterns are more colourful, with yellows and greens), the name for this tiling derives from the Arabic al-zulayj,meaning “polished stone”, which refers to the tradition’s Moorish origins.
In the eighth century, 711AD, the Moors invaded ‘Al-Andalus’ (the Iberian Peninsula), a huge territory that would later become present-day Spain and Portugal. During this early takeover, a proportion of buildings near the sea were clad in glazed tiles to control the climate and protect them from the salty air. The designs were rooted in Islamic art, with intricate geometric and mathematical patterns, but this is quite different from the figurative designs we see in Lisbon (and other Portuguese cities) today. At this time, there were strong restrictions on religious figurative imagery, so there were no humans depicted in the tilework, which is a far cry from places such as Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira, north of Lisbon, which depicts members of the Mascarenhas family on horseback. Later, the tradition became part of Portuguese culture, and the designs we know today became synonymous with Lisbon.
By the 16th century, Seville had become Iberia’s most important centre for tilework. In the early years of his reign, the King of Portugal, Manuel I, visited Seville and encountered the richly coloured interiors of the Alcazar. The palace walls were (and still are) adorned with intricately carved Mudéjar tilework, which made a strong impression on the King. Upon his return, ornate tilework was installed in royal residences, including Sintra National Palace and Jerónimos Monastery, both of which still have these works today. It was here that the same (mostly blue and white) tiling began appearing in this style, both in the interiors and on the exteriors of Portuguese buildings.
By the 17th century, a defining shift had taken place. Influenced by the arrival of Chinese porcelain through global trade routes, Portuguese artisans embraced the now-iconic cobalt blue palette. Tiles told stories, and entire walls were transformed into tableaux of religious scenes, pastoral landscapes, and naval victories.
The best way to see the whole picture is at Lisbon's Museu Nacional do Azulejo. A dedicated museum that traces the craft from its Moorish beginnings to the grand narrative panels of the 18th century, including a grand pre-earthquake depiction of the city. But to see the works out in the wild, head to the Alfama and Mouraria districts, where the sun-faded tiles adorn the sides of buildings in their original place. The Monastery of São Vicente de Fora is filled with over 150 panels of Azulejo depicting scenes of country hunting, religious subjects, and noble amusement. Outside of Lisbon, Porto has more spectacular examples to see, including the São Bento Station, where more than 20,000 tiles line the walls of the main hall, depicting key episodes in Portuguese history.
Across Lisbon and other Portuguese cities, Azulejos carry layered meanings that offer insight into the country’s rich history. Renaissance and Baroque influences can be seen in many, while the Moorish patterns can still be found on the sides of crumbling buildings.