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7 days in Northern Norway

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Superyacht Grance in Hamn
3

Day three: Tranøy to Hamn

From Tranøy we go north east across the Vestfjorden towards the distant ridge of blue-tinged mountains – the Lofoten Wall as it is known locally. The string of islands that make up this seemingly solid wall – Austvågøy, Vestvågøy, Flakstadøya, Moskenesøya and, more detached, Værøy and Røst – reach out from the mainland in a curve, like a protective hand shielding the Vestfjorden from the worst extremes of the Arctic winter.

Our 20-mile crossing leads us towards the narrow Tjeldsundet passage – invisible until one closes to within a few miles – that snakes between the Lofoten mountains. As we emerge into the open water of the Vågsfjorden, the solid mass of Senja appears from its blue haze; we continue north, escorted by a pod of porpoises. We take the island’s western coast, open to the North Atlantic winds. This rugged and indented coastline is scenically spectacular and we wind in and out of steep-sided fjords before stopping for the night at the little settlement of Hamn.

Tourism is relatively new to northernmost Norway, but an enthusiastic entrepreneur from Oslo has bought this declining fishing settlement, with its sheltered harbour, and transformed it into a thriving and pretty resort. We walk the bounds of the harbour, gulls wheeling above our heads, and stop at the hotel’s fish restaurant for freshly caught turbot. Still in sunshine at almost midnight, we head to the settlement’s northern headland to view the archipelago of skerries that stretches towards the distant mountains.

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