Kate Lardy finds refuge from rough waters at the newly reimagined Peter Island Resort in the BVI...
Most of the time, the BVI is a sailor’s paradise. Not today. At least not for a fair-weather mariner like myself; true sailors would love the conditions. It’s blowing 25 knots, the typically flat Sir Francis Drake Channel is frothy, and I need a break. We leave our rolly mooring at the dive site of the RMS Rhone wreck and head to nearby Sprat Bay, arriving at the Peter Island Yacht Club, where, blessedly, there is nary a ripple in the water.
This blissfully calm basin is newly shaped. Peter Island Resort reopened in December 2024 after a seven-year hiatus following Hurricane Irma in 2017. Like several upscale BVI resorts that suffered the Category Five storm’s wrath, the rebuild became an opportunity to elevate the luxury. With an extended breakwater offering extra protection, the marina can now accommodate up to two 60-metre-plus superyachts at once, along with numerous slips for smaller superyachts like mine and a handful of mooring balls. On shore, the resort's heart moved from dockside to next door at Deadman’s Bay, where a string of 52 beachfront rooms, suites and villas caters to land-based guests. The marina is now picturesquely fringed with a boutique, sports courts, a waterside swimming pool and the casual Drunken Pelican restaurant.
As the only resort on the BVI’s largest private island, which spans 730 hectares, it has plenty more to offer, with amenities spread out along immaculately landscaped paths winding around the hillside. A long stroll or short golf cart ride brings guests to The Spa at Peter Island, a serene complex with treatment rooms, salon services, a fitness centre, infinity pool and even a tranquillity garden, all overlooking the eastern waters of Big Reef Bay. Signature treatments draw inspiration from the islands; the Peter Island massage, for example, draws on two local attractions, Shell Island (the manmade mound of conch shells near Anegada) and the boulders of The Baths, using warm lava shells and hot stones to induce relaxation.
Beachside at Deadman’s Bay is one of the few spots in the BVI with a dress code: The Drake Steakhouse, renowned for its surf and turf and extensive wine list. The rules aren’t too onerous, though, only requiring men to have a collar, long trousers and closed-toed shoes, though I spot a couple of errant knees and toes. Dining on the terrace, while well protected from the pesky winds, I discover a pleasant dichotomy of Manhattan-like fine dining with Caribbean postcard-perfect views.
There are also two standalone villas perched on the hillside, the three-bedroom Hawk’s Nest above Deadman’s Bay and, for the pinnacle of poshness, the six-bedroom 2,000-plus square metre Falcon’s Nest that towers over White Bay on the other side of the island. Backed by a waterfall and fronted by a pool that spills over the hill's edge, the secluded compound comes with a chef and butler, plus access to a typically empty beach reserved for resort guests.
The rebuild appears to have been done without a budget, not only with elegance and modernity but also with every consideration made for comfort and hospitality – all while maintaining the small resort’s intrinsic charm. It’s everything Peter Island used to be and more.