HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT

The foodie haven you should add to your cruising programme

National Pantheon monument

Steeped in history and with a buzzing gastronomic scene, Lisbon is a little-known superyacht stop with heaps of potential, discovers Georgia Boscawen

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“No, that’s one of the biggest tourist traps in Lisbon,” laughs Catarina Mendonça, associate director of public relations at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon. I sheepishly drag my phone back across the table, shielding the Lisbon to-do list that I cobbled together before arriving in Portugal.

“That’s the thing with Lisbon; there are lots of Disney-esque places that are easy to fall into – they’re extortionately expensive and a complete waste of time,” she adds.

My curation of attractions, which includes The Fantastic World of Portuguese Sardines, apparently falls into that category. You must place your trust in local knowledge to uncover the marvels of the Portuguese capital, I learn.

Despite its rich maritime past (and infrastructure) the number of superyachts visiting Lisbon and its surrounding cities is surprisingly low. There have, however, been a few notable visitors in the last five years – including 109-metre Bravo Eugenia and 65-metre White Rose of Drachs – spending up to five days in the area.

From where I’m standing – on the cobbled street of Rua do Loreto in the bustling Chiado district – Lisbon is the perfect city for passing superyacht guests who really want to explore: it’s beautiful, historical and authentic.

GETTY IMAGES

GETTY IMAGES

From where I’m standing – on the cobbled street of Rua do Loreto in the bustling Chiado district – Lisbon is the perfect city for passing superyacht guests who really want to explore: it’s beautiful, historical and authentic.

GETTY IMAGES

GETTY IMAGES

It’s been about six minutes of waiting before the next batch of warm pastel de nata are slipped under the glass counter in Manteigaria on the Rua do Loreto (one of the best bakeries here and less touristy than Pastéies de Belém, which is known to have queues around the block). Upon sinking my teeth into the still-warm custard tart, it’s easy to see why these small flaky pastries, like a bite-sized crème brûlée dusted with cinnamon, are a must in their native city.

Pasteis de nata

COURTESY MANTEIGARIA Above: In the heart of the Chiado district the Praça Luís de Camões is a hub of shopping and dining activity; Pastéis de nata, the country’s famous custard

COURTESY MANTEIGARIA Above: In the heart of the Chiado district the Praça Luís de Camões is a hub of shopping and dining activity; Pastéis de nata, the country’s famous custard

It’s been about six minutes of waiting before the next batch of warm pastel de nata are slipped under the glass counter in Manteigaria on the Rua do Loreto (one of the best bakeries here and less touristy than Pastéies de Belém, which is known to have queues around the block).

Upon sinking my teeth into the still-warm custard tart, it’s easy to see why these small flaky pastries, like a bite-sized crème brûlée dusted with cinnamon, are a must in their native city.

Pasteis de nata

COURTESY MANTEIGARIA Above: In the heart of the Chiado district the Praça Luís de Camões is a hub of shopping and dining activity; Pastéis de nata, the country’s famous custard

COURTESY MANTEIGARIA Above: In the heart of the Chiado district the Praça Luís de Camões is a hub of shopping and dining activity; Pastéis de nata, the country’s famous custard

Winding alleyways and broad, cobbled streets will naturally draw you to the city’s sights

Lisbon is proud of its local delicacies, and you can see it by just weaving around the 19th-century buildings of Chiado, which is packed with bakeries, restaurants and canneries.

Having studiously avoided The Fantastic World of Portuguese Sardines (though I did poke my head in the door), I find myself at the family-owned sardine cannery, Conserveira de Lisboa, a fine example of the city’s foodie heritage.

The small shop lies on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, its dark wooden shelves sagging under the weight of thousands of tins. In the corner, the owner’s son diligently sits hand-folding brightly coloured paper around the individual tins, which are being stacked up before taking their place on the already-full shelves.

Lisbon is proud of its local delicacies, and you can see it by just weaving around the 19th-century buildings of Chiado, which is packed with bakeries, restaurants and canneries. Having studiously avoided The Fantastic World of Portuguese Sardines (though I did poke my head in the door), I find myself at the family-owned sardine cannery, Conserveira de Lisboa, a fine example of the city’s foodie heritage.

The small shop lies on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, its dark wooden shelves sagging under the weight of thousands of tins. In the corner, the owner’s son diligently sits hand-folding brightly coloured paper around the individual tins, which are being stacked up before taking their place on the already-full shelves.

Finally making it to the front of the line, I point to the cans that I’d like to try, many of which we don’t see back in the UK – sardinas en tomate, limão and picante – trying my best to form words in Portuguese, since no English is spoken here.

Street scene

DAVEY GRAVY - UNSPLASH

DAVEY GRAVY - UNSPLASH

Finally making it to the front of the line, I point to the cans that I’d like to try, many of which we don’t see back in the UK – sardinas en tomate, limão and picante – trying my best to form words in Portuguese, since no English is spoken here.

Street scene

DAVEY GRAVY - UNSPLASH

DAVEY GRAVY - UNSPLASH

Winding alleyways and broad, cobbled streets will naturally draw you to the city’s sights

Item 1 of 4
Plate of food

HAYLEY KELSING

HAYLEY KELSING

Restaurant

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

Street scene

ADOBE STOCK

ADOBE STOCK

Item 1 of 4
Plate of food

HAYLEY KELSING

HAYLEY KELSING

Restaurant

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

FRANCISCO RIVOTTI

Street scene

ADOBE STOCK

ADOBE STOCK

The popular coffee shop A Brasileira has been a meeting spot for artists, writers and intellectuals for over a century

From a modern point of view, Lisbon’s gastronomic scene is increasingly exciting, so much so that in 2024 Portugal received its own Michelin Guide (having previously shared it with Spain), which now recommends 167 restaurants, 45 of which are in the capital. On that list is one Michelin-starred Cura in the legendary Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, helmed by Pedro Pena Bastos.