An unassuming cannery tucked away in Lisbon unlocks a portal into Portuguese history...
In Lisbon’s historic downtown district of Baixa, behind the jostling flow of Rua da Prata, sits an old shop hidden between modern cafés and tiled shopfronts. A small emblem, eaten away by a century of salty air, is painted directly onto the wall beside the shop’s entrance. Yet, as you step inside Conserveira de Lisboa, you'll find yourself immersed in a microcosm of Portuguese culture.
Dimly lit and with a subtle metallic scent, the wooden shelves behind the counter tower to the ceiling, each one crammed with tins of preserved fish. This unassuming store is a far cry from the fantastical canneries that are first to pop up on Google Maps here in Lisbon, but Conserveira de Lisboa is the oldest cannery still in operation in the city and holds great significance for its heritage.
The labels are still written by hand and, once purchased, the tins are packed up in brown paper and string. English speakers will need to employ their best Portuguese as this is not a tourist spot (though tourists are welcome).
The practice of preserving fish arrived in Portugal in the mid-19th century, when Napoleonic techniques of salting them in barrels, sterilisation and vacuum-sealing (useful to feed soldiers on campaign) were adapted for commercial use. Canned fish became a significant industry in Portugal in the early 20th century during a period of economic uncertainty under the Estado Novo regime (Portugal's nationalist government), exacerbated by political instability and under-industrialisation. National self-sufficiency was prioritised during the period, particularly in agriculture and fishing.
The first Portuguese cannery opened in 1853 in Vila Real de Santo António, near the Algarve, but it was along the Atlantic coast, Setúbal, Matosinhos, and later in Lisbon, that the industry flourished. By the early 20th century more than 400 canneries could be found along the coastline, employing thousands of locals – women in particular – and becoming a vital source of income for coastal communities.
Once serving as an affordable source of protein, tinned sardines (and other variations) are now celebrated as a local delicacy. Today, visitors can head to Sol e Pesca, a former fishing tackle shop turned (walk-in-only) bar in Cais do Sodré, where tinned fish is the star of the menu. Here you can sit beneath a ceiling strung with old fishing rods beside shelves crammed with yet more tinned fish and choose from a menu of various spiced sardines, Bulhão Pato-style (garlic) razor clams and tuna with parsley. The tins are opened at your table and placed on rustic platters with crusty bread and tomatoes.
Those seeking a more refined spot can head uphill to Can the Can, by Praça do Comércio. This restaurant is on a mission to promote the national canning industry, study its history and innovate with Portuguese preserves. Tins here are paired with zingy cocktails and crisp wines to cut through the oil.
Alternatively, take your tin back to your yacht and eat it as generations before you have, straight from the tin with crusty bread. Light Portuguese lager like Sagres makes a perfect casual accompaniment or a small glass of chilled white port brings a nutty sweetness that complements sardines in escabeche.
Once a pantry staple, Portuguese tinned sardines and their relatives (mackerel, tuna, anchovies, octopus) have ascended to the status of delicacies. These seemingly modest ingredients now grace tasting menus and tapas boards, celebrated not despite their simplicity, but because of it. With traditional canneries like Conserveira de Lisboa tucked discreetly among the city's vibrant streets, discovering the original spots requires a keener eye. Yet Lisbon remains the ultimate destination to savour these small delights, and, after all, the finest treasures are always best unlocked with a key.