Dea Jusufi steps on board the 53.3-metre Aeterna to discover why Croatia’s quietly captivating coastline has become a mainstay of the Mediterranean charter season...
Tourism was non-existent in Croatia only 30 years ago. Years of conflict within the former Yugoslavia meant travellers did not return en masse until the late 1990s. And when attention finally turned to the nation’s crystalline waters and charming Renaissance architecture, the country was ill-equipped to handle the curiosity – although this lack of infrastructure would become a part of Croatia’s charm.
Take the island of Vis, for instance. It became a military base under the communist regime, then went back to nature again. Now home to around 3,300 people, it is full of vineyards: visitors can sample the local produce at Lipanović Winery, which is tucked inside a former military tunnel. They can also scuba dive in search of sunken Second World War aircraft. It’s a far cry from Monaco, or the polished hotels and restaurants that proliferate the Amalfi Coast, but, as Aeterna’s captain says, chic new openings are not what draw guests to Croatia.
"People come to Croatia for the history, culture and the strength of its tradition," Captain Vedran Rakuljic explains. "That’s what makes it different from other Mediterranean holidays."
The 53.3-metre Aeterna, now in her second summer charter season, is docked stern-to on the southern side of Šćedro, a protected, scarcely occupied islet off the coast of Hvar. We’re sitting on the main deck aft, one of the outdoor areas that offers shade. This yacht was clearly built for soaking in the sun. Just below us, I can hear whistles and cheers as the members of my party launch themselves from the swim platform.
Rakuljic is right, of course. Centuries upon centuries of shifting settlers – the Ottomans, the Romans, the Austro-Hungarian Empire – have shaped Croatia, and its full flush of islands, into a miscellany of dialects, cultures and architectural beauties. And, positioned as she is in the Adriatic Sea, that history is indelibly linked to seafaring.
From the electric-blue water of the island of Korčula, boats head to Mjlet, where Homer set the shipwreck that stranded Odysseus with the beguiling nymph Calypso, to Grabac Cave, where the first drawing of a European naval ship was found etched into a shard of pottery. Even Hvar, which has gained something of a party reputation, has the mediaeval Arsenale yard and Cypress trees to stand testament to its shipbuilding heritage.
"It is incredibly easy to find a beautiful bay or anchorage in Croatia. This means we can anchor near these cultural towns, and let guests enjoy the best of both worlds," Rakuljic says. "They can swim and enjoy the toys, then later we’ll organise tenders to take them for city tours, wine tastings and some historical excursions. All of this is organised in advance."
When I ask Rakuljic about his own history, he surprises me. Besides a brief spell in Zagreb (to train for his captain’s licence), he has lived in Split all his life. And he has no illusions of greener pastures (or bluer waters) in Cannes or along the US East Coast. "I know my country very well, and I like being able to introduce charter guests to my way of life," he says.
The yacht he captains, Aeterna, was built by Radež in 2020 with 18 cabins for 36 guests. "She was more like an on-water hotel than a superyacht," Rakuljic says. "Two years ago, the owner decided to do a huge refit to improve the level of service. I was hired as her captain, but I also co-supervised her reconstruction."
Work began in October 2023 and ended just in time for the 2024 summer season. In nine months, the team achieved a remarkable amount of work. "We gutted the rooms, removed some walls and installed her wiring from scratch. Most of the interiors are brand-new, including the main saloon and the master cabin," Rakuljic explains.
Eight fewer cabins also meant room for an indoor cinema – a cosy space, complemented by beanbags and board games – and a small but well-equipped spa. The latter is one of two areas where Aeterna really shines. A sauna and massage table sit in a pared-back, dimly lit room, with the gentle scent of ginger and tinkling classical music. Danijela Mijuskovic, Aeterna’s no-nonsense masseuse, delivers a remarkable deep-tissue massage and recommends I take up swimming for my poor posture (an affliction I didn’t know I had).
The other place where this charter sparkles is the galley, led by the modest but talented chef Marino Dikic and his sous chef, Ivica Mazar. Lunches charm in quantity and quality. Aeterna serves family-style portions of tender lamb ragu, roasted feta soup, grilled prawns and buttery fillets of the native amberjack.
Dishes are more refined in the evenings and include all the crowd-pleasers (think Cadoret oysters and Wagyu tartare). But the highlight is my final night, when Aeterna leans into her heritage with a Dalmatian dinner. Anchovies are the first course, locally sourced and bathed in a light tomato and olive oil broth.
Then follows a fragrant white fish brodetto, a creamy polenta and the pasticada – a braised veal dish that breaks easily under my spoon. It’s almost too much when dessert comes, but the whipped white chocolate ganache is feather-light and sprinkled generously with walnuts and dry figs.
The high standard of gastronomy on board precludes the need for local restaurant recommendations. But for charter guests looking for culinary excursions, Rakuljic has curated a select few across Croatia’s many islands.
"Konobo Maha on Korčula is my favourite spot for traditional Croatian cooking," he says, recommending the octopus peka above all else on the menu. For a late lunch, the thatched-roof Laganini is the hip place to be, perched on a private bay in Palmižana, Hvar. Its billowy cabanas can be reserved for larger groups, with bartenders able to shake up every cocktail under the sun.
The number-one spot, however, is BOWA. Located half an hour from Dubrovnik, the on-water restaurant has its own private pebble bay, as well as a dock for smaller yachts. "They don’t have any facilities – not even electricity," Rakuljic explains excitedly. "Each morning, they prepare everything on the mainland and transport it over. The menu is small, but the dining experience is so unique."
A sudden splash interrupts our conversation. Briefly distracted, I glance over the port railing to see a member of my party trying – and failing – to use the e-foil. Another virtue of Aeterna’s comprehensive refit is her toy box, which has been stocked with all the latest gadgets. Guests can have some high-octane fun on the Jet Skis, Sea-Doos and Seabobs, or lounge by the inflatable jellyfish-proof pool.
I had seen a handful of them while snorkelling, as well as a cloud of striped sea bream and the glinting shell of a sea turtle. "It’s a little cold for me," Rakuljic laughs, joining me in watching the watersports. The preferred month for a little peace (and lots of warmth) is September, but those looking for buzzing nightlife are encouraged to book during the peak season, particularly July and August.
This time of year, in May, the sea still feels like a revelation to me. Aeterna can anchor beside any number of Croatia’s rugged islets, which are green-tufted and gently curved for natural protection from the elements. The clear ocean surface is as still as bathwater, and the only company Aeterna has for the entire trip is the occasional small sailing yacht or speedy catamaran. Lithe and white, they glide past our four decks the way remora fish circle a whale.
A week on board Aeterna is priced from €119,000. It’s economical considering her capacity. “We’re fully booked from mid-May to the end of September,” Rakuljic says. That’s approximately 15 charters, with 24-hour turnarounds in between. “We get to enjoy Aeterna a little before and after the season, but not during. We’re far too busy for that.” When I ask him what the crew gets up to on their days off – they only have three this summer – Rakuljic says, “sleep, swim and get some sun.” What more could you ask for?
Aeterna is available for charter with TWW Yachts. First published in the November 2025 issue of BOAT International. Get this magazine sent straight to your door, or subscribe and never miss an issue.
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