As the traditional noren curtains slide over my shoulders and I step onto the padded floors of Harijyu, a small restaurant hidden in bustling Dōtonbori in Osaka - Japan's food-obsessed city - it strikes me that I have no idea what to do next.

I look to the maître d’, who hands me a pair of leather slippers before leading us to a private room with a low-set table stacked with unfamiliar vegetables. For years, I’ve prided myself on an ability to navigate restaurant scenes around the world with an air of confidence, but here, in a small restaurant in Japan, I am befuddled. 

It’s a curious experience that captures the wonderful social discombobulation that Japan promises. Established more than 100 years ago, and on this spot from 1948, Harijyu is a historic restaurant that serves sukiyaki, a traditional dish prepared in a nabemono (Japanese hot pot) with thinly sliced beef and noodles, dipped in egg.

If there was ever a place that could astound the discerning Western traveller, it’s Osaka. A slightly grittier cousin of Tokyo, the city is known for its effervescent nightlife, remarkable food scene and local charm, which despite its size still manages to shine through. Sprawling around Osaka Bay, a vast natural cove more than 30 kilometres wide, the city is split into easy-to- navigate districts, although a local guide is the best way to immerse yourself.

In Japan, contemporary life is deeply infused with the country’s rich heritage and permeated by religious influences – predominantly Shinto and Buddhism. Despite being an island nation, with plenty of coastline and natural bays that fuse with the country’s largest and most vibrant cities, marine leisure (including superyachts) has not been a notable part of Japan’s culture.

But a shift in regulations for visiting superyachts in December 2021 presented a new opportunity. Over an extended period Super Yacht Logistics Japan worked with several government departments to shine a light on the benefits of superyacht activity and to overhaul the rules, which were previously similar to those governing commercial shipping.

The result is greater ease for foreign-flagged superyachts in receiving their naikosen (cruising permit) and the ability to stay for an unlimited amount of time (a crew pass was previously issued for a maximum of just 14 days). Bureaucracy pruned back, the country is a much more attractive option for those looking to travel by superyacht.

Dōtonbori, the foodie neighbourhood of Osaka, is ablaze with neon signs, most of which denote the street food stalls that line the avenue, which comes alive at night. The air is thick with the smell of cooking. I make my way to a stall beneath a glowing red sign reading “takoyaki” and collect a searing hot bowl of Osaka’s most celebrated dish – battered octopus dumplings covered in katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) and a sprinkle of aonori (seaweed).

“Here in Osaka, we have a saying: ‘Kuidaore’,” says our guide, Aina. “It means eat until you drop.” She leads us through plumes of steam emitting from stalls selling okonomiyaki, a savoury crepe-like dish piled with cabbage, and mitarashi dango, sticky rice dumplings in a sweet soy glaze.

We head to Naramachi, Nara’s former merchant town where small shops sell traditional Japanese knives and mochi rice cakes, and restaurants serve eel (which is addictive!). The JW Marriott Nara was the first luxury international hotel to open in the area. Drawing on the cultural landscape of Nara, there are nods to temples, historical buildings and the deer in the huge open-plan lobby, which is finished in natural tones, bronze and leather.

Since the relaxation of Japan’s maritime regulations, many superyachts have taken advantage of the changes, with the likes of 72-metre VSY Stella Maris and 37-metre Tecnomar White Pearl cruising the region.

And it’s not just the vibrancy of the cities that poses an exciting adventure for yachts: Japan has more than 7,000 islands to explore, each with its own culture and food. The options for onward cruising from Osaka are many, either up to Tokyo or all the way down to the Maldives-like beaches of Okinawa. Japan’s relationship with yachting may not be part of its past, but new regulations are undoubtedly paving the way for its future. marriott.com