The owner of the 23.2-metre Bering 76 Lemanjá likes to roll up his sleeves and put his boat through her paces. Two years ago, he sailed her himself from Turkey to England, covering over 4,600 nautical miles.
BOAT International catches up with him after his latest expedition, a route that has taken them from England to Norway, via the Shetland Islands and onto Ireland. In this interview, he shares his personal account of shifting weather, wild animals unbothered by human presence and the rare stillness that only comes when you’re truly off the grid. He also explains why Lemanjá has always been more than just a boat...
Who was with you on the trip?
My wife and I travelled together, and to our great joy, my son and his partner joined us for many weeks on this trip - he came with us on the last one too.
How did you plan your route?
First of all, there is a "big plan" of areas and destinations that my wife and I would like to reach by boat in the remaining years of our lives. From this bucket list, destinations are selected every year, and the corresponding route is planned. This time it was from the south of England to Norway, through the fjords and then back via the Shetland Islands, Scotland, through the Caledonian Canal to Ireland, finishing up in the south of England.
How did you prepare for northern conditions?
In terms of seafaring, I dealt intensively with tides, currents, the weather and the areas in advance and prepared for them. As for Lemanjá, it was built to sail in such areas. They are her "natural environment", so to speak, so she didn't need any special preparation. Regardless of this, Lemanjá was of course extensively and comprehensively maintained during a lift out in March. The crew prepared by buying warm and rainproof clothing.
Were you and your family able to keep your usual daily routine on the yacht?
Yes. During the trip, thanks to Starlink on board, work was also done online if necessary. We didn’t just sail - we made time for plenty of visits, hikes and excursions at every stop along the way.
How long did the trip take, and how many nautical miles did you travel?
We planned it would take four months, from May to the beginning of September, which is the maximum time window available in the North Atlantic between the last spring storms and the first autumn storms. Unfortunately, my wife had broken her hand, which had to heal first, so we were late starting on May 29th. We finished at the end of August and the total distance covered was 2,150 nautical miles.
What kind of weather did you experience along the way?
We had the entire range of weather - from beautiful, sunny sea days with calm seas to 45 knots of wind with very high waves. The weather is very changeable in the north. In the morning, it can still be beautiful and windless, but an hour later, a storm blows up or it starts to rain, or suddenly dense fog comes up out of nowhere. Good weather planning is therefore essential. It is very important not to rely on just one weather model. I always compare the data from at least three weather models. It is amazing what differences there are in the forecasts on some days. In the end, things can still turn out differently than all models predicted.
In addition to the weather, tides are a major factor in the North Atlantic. The tidal range must be observed very carefully, for example, when anchoring (taking into account correct chain length and sufficient water under the keel) or when entering ports. Many ports can only be reached at certain tides.
A major challenge in the North Atlantic, especially near the coast, is the currents, which can be fast - four to five knots and more in current speed are not uncommon and two to three knots are considered normal. If we hit a strong current, the boat drifts sideways instead of going straight. It is always a "scary" feeling when you look over the bow and see a different point than the one you are actually heading for.
It gets worse when the wind blows against the current. Then, an extremely steep and high sea develops. If you have to sail against it, it is a strain on the boat and the people on board. This happened to us once on a night trip along England’s East Coast - six hours of testing our gear and our nerves!
You saw seals and even penguins on the Shetland Islands. What was that like?
The best thing about sailing in the North Atlantic is that there is little shipping traffic compared to other regions. In particular, there are only very few pleasure yachts “on the road” there. Here, "remote places" are actually remote and lonely.
These, in turn, are ideal retreats for animals. There are loads of animals there, with plenty of different species too. Also, the animals there are sometimes quite tame and not as shy towards humans. When we were anchored at the Farne Islands for one night, the birds sat right next to us on the deck calmly preening their feathers like we weren’t even there. And best of all, loads of curious, fearless seals kept coming right up to Lemanjá.
The funniest birds on the Shetland Islands are the puffins. With their large beaks, tiny wings, oversized heads and bodies, they look funny. But they are true flight artists. Only when taking off and landing do they sometimes have difficulties, which is incredibly fun to watch.
How often did you need to restock or refuel?
Before our departure, we stored enough food and drinks in our large pantry. On the way, we only bought fresh vegetables and fruit at the ports. We refuelled once because the price was very cheap there. But we wouldn't have had to refuel. For the 2,150 nautical miles we sailed on this tour, we used less than half of our tank capacity in fuel.
This year, there were no particularly long passages without a stop. The longest were the two crossings of the North Sea from England to Norway and later back again. They were about 260 nautical miles each and took us about 32 hours each.
What is most important to you - safety, autonomy or freedom?
As the owner of the expedition yacht, the most important thing for me is that I can rely on the boat in any weather, any sea and at any time. I know that all crew and guests on board are safe and comfortable and that the choice of my destinations and cruising areas is not restricted or limited by the boat. I love the feeling of being self-determined and free - for me, the only place where you can still feel real freedom is out there at sea.
Were there any surprises or unexpected moments during the trip?
Our journey was full of memorable moments - big and small. The most thrilling were the seafaring challenges, while the most beautiful came from being out in nature, at sea and along the coasts. One of the most unexpected was a helicopter rescue training exercise by the HM Coast Guard, where Lemanjá played a leading role. But above all, it was the fascinating encounters and exchanges with people from different cultures that stood out - like learning that a Norwegian still sees himself as a Viking, and that a Scotsman is definitely not English!
Tell us more about the rescue exercise… Can you tell us how it happened?
We were sailing on Loch Ness when my son suddenly told me there was a large coast guard helicopter flying very close behind us. At that moment, I received a message over the radio from the helicopter pilot asking me if they could do a training exercise on Lemanjá and could I please continue my journey at eight knots of speed without changing direction.
He then tried to drop a man on our flybridge by rope at full speed - or rather, full flight. Due to the strong wind prevailing at that time, it took several attempts. Eventually, the man landed safely on board, right as a sailboat under full sail crossed into our path and he was trying to release the hook of the rope from his rescue suit. It was quite a hairy moment!
After saying hello and stopping for a photo, the rescuer then had to be "picked up" from our bathing platform, which wasn’t exactly easy, as the pilot had to drop the line with even more precision.
And no, this isn’t just a sailor’s tall tale - you can read all about it in the HM Coast Guard’s daily log!
Before this trip, you cruised from Turkey to Mallorca, passing Sicily, the Bay of Biscay, etc. How would you compare that experience to this one?
The journey through the Mediterranean is in no way comparable to the journey in the North Atlantic. The Mediterranean is pleasure cruising, the Atlantic is at sea.
If you had to choose north or south, which one would you prefer, and why?
It is variety that enriches our lives and makes them exciting. I would therefore not want to choose one of the areas. Alternating between high and medium latitudes is what makes it so appealing.
How did being far from civilisation feel out in the open sea?
The further away from civilisation, the greater the feeling of freedom and independence. But the greater is the respect and reverence for the sea, the weather and the forces of nature. It is not for nothing that the saying goes, "At sea, your fate is in God's hands alone".
We know the yacht is currently for sale...
Lemanjá is for sale because, as John Lennon once said, "life happens while you make other plans".
What would you like to wish or say to the future owner of Lemanjá?
To the future owner, I would say: continue the voyage we began with Lemanjá - she deserves it!